RESTAURANT REVIEW:Hooters: People like it for the food -- really

The reputation Hooters has as being a sanctuary for misogynists is not a mantra the chain restaurant lives by or encourages.

It really kind of pokes fun at the whole sexist image. The company’s slogan, “Deliciously tacky, yet unrefined,” is meant as a joke, and those who go there regularly get it.

I mean, where else would you find a restaurant that offers a $179.99 gourmet chicken wing dinner, which is the same wings it usually serves, but accompanied by a bottle of Dom Perignon champagne?

Yes, it is true there is an all-female staff and they are there to attract male diners, but it is totally harmless. The women are in orange shorts and somewhat low-cut tank tops, but I have seen more provocative clothing on teenage girls at the mall. We as a society should be far more alarmed at that.

The waitresses are not overt in their friendliness and actually are very adept at making customers feel comfortable.In September, Hooters will celebrate its third year in Costa Mesa, moving from Newport Beach after an unsuccessful run that saw it crammed in at a location on Newport Boulevard.

Now it is up off the 405 Freeway, easier to get to and parking is not a monumental task like it was before.

The restaurant has turned into a neighborhood sports lounge of sorts, as it has hosted televised Ultimate Fighting Championship events, radio personality remote broadcasts and countless Anaheim Ducks or Los Angeles Angels nights.

The reason it is popular is the food. For what it is, Hooters does it well.

Typical bar appetizers and uncomplicated entrées make up the menu. The specialty would be the chicken wings, and while they are good, I would suggest several other items before you made the wings your main meal. Order the 20-piece wings, not breaded, and split them with the table. If you like oysters or clams, they are done well here. Steamed or raw, they are served with drawn butter. But the sandwiches dominate the menu.

The chicken parmesan platter is one of the better selections. It is a fried chicken breast smothered with provolone cheese and marinara sauce.

One sandwich I found surprisingly good was the Texas steak sandwich: a flat piece of steak topped with cheese (I picked provolone) and onions and mushrooms. The meat was marinated and I found it quite enjoyable.

Some of the appetizers are worth trying as well.

The buffalo shrimp is a good addition with chicken wings. The sampler platter has steamed shrimp, snow crab legs, buffalo shrimp and wings.

One appetizer I can’t tell you about is the fried pickles. I have seen it on the menu and tried to muster up the courage to eat it, but no chance. I can’t bring myself to order it.

Hooters has gained more acceptance, and every time I go in I see more and more women as patrons. It is actually quite an enjoyable experience.

HOOTERS

Address: 1507 South Coast Drive, Costa Mesa

Phone: (714) 427-0755

Cuisine: American

Specialty dish: Chicken wings

Alcohol served: yes

Dress: casual

Family friendly: No

Credit cards accepted: Visa, MasterCard and American Express

Rating: ***